Update 09/04/2015: David Copping, the area manager for North America at Grand Power SRO reached out to give me a couple of small tips straight from the source. They’ve been integrated into the post below, specifically regarding the safety lever removal and the magazine release, which I didn’t actually mess with originally. Thanks, David!
I recently got a K100 in for a friend of mine who was nice enough to let me rip it apart and review it. There’s barely any info online about these really interesting Slovakian pistols, and nary a parts diagram to be found aside from one miserably low resolution drawing from Marstar Canada. Today’s project is detail stripping the K100 Mk7.
Parts diagram!
Part 1: The Slide
We always start with the easy part first. Consult the manual for regular field strip procedure, which is summarized as:
- Clear the firearm and set the magazine aside. Clear it again for good measure.
- Retract the slide a small distance and pull down and forward on the trigger guard, it will pop downward like a CZ-82.
- Retract the slide all the way to the rear, lifting up at the back to clear the frame rails.
- Slide the whole mess forward and off the frame.
Now that we’ve got just the slide in hand, let’s get rolling!
1. Depress the extractor retaining “puck” plunger.
That’s the one with the hole in it.
2. Pull the extractor toward the ejection port, may require some wiggling.
Slides out with some nudging.
3. Remove the “puck” the same way, it won’t pull straight out. Remove the spring.
Extractor, spring, puck and plunger spring.
4. Drive out the roll-pin that retains the firing pin. Either direction works.
5. Depress the firing pin blocking plunger to remove the firing pin, plunger and its spring, and finally fish out the firing pin spring from its channel in the slide.
Firing pin, spring, block plunger and spring, roll pin retainer.
All done! That’s the easy part, but the frame isn’t too tough either.
Part 2: The Frame
Here’s a quick rundown of the pin locations and what they belong to:
Only one pin has a shoulder, the others are symmetric.
1. Drive out the slide stop pin. It’s got two D-spring detents but isn’t super tight. The guide rod is retained by this pin also, and can be removed if it doesn’t fall out on its own.
2. Drive out the frame roll pin at the back of the grip.
At this point you’ll notice you can lift the front of the frame insert up but can’t get the back to move very much. That’s because the safety is the third “pin” retaining the assembly. The safety is three pieces, with two of them being the plastic lever portions tightly fitted to the center steel drum. An oddly-shaped tab on the levers must align with an oddly-shaped hole in the frame to allow removal.
3. Remove the right side lever of the safety by pushing the safety lever down in the front (past “fire” or off position) and levering the plastic lever portion away from the frame from the INSIDE.
David: “To remove the safety lever, start by slightly lifting the frame up at the rear. Don’t press the lever out from within or you will bugger it up. Lifting the insert slightly will open up enough room to allow the lever to pull straight out.”
Dental picks and hooks are lifesavers here.
Square peg, square hole. Well, rectangular, but you get the idea.
Half-cock the hammer and the safety pulls right out.
4. Lift the frame insert assembly out, straight up. Pushing on the cocked hammer will give you more leverage, but should not harm the sear. The barrel cam pin is a loose fit and will probably fall out in the process.
Lifts right out!
5. Lift off the slide stop and make sure you didn’t drop the small slide stop spring that lives in a hole on the bottom of the frame insert.
Mostly self contained assembly. Note the cam pin near the front of the insert and the tiny black spring.
6. Push the ball bearing cups out from the inside just flush with the frame, which allows you to flip the trigger bar over and take the tension off of it. Remove the trigger bar pin RIGHT TO LEFT as it is the only pin with a shoulder on it.
Long spring leg rides on the cross-pin on the trigger.
7. If you want to remove the mag catch for some reason, drive the small pin above it out and beware the kind of gnarly spring behind it.
8. Let the hammer down and drive the hammer spring retainer pin out either direction, but take care to press in on the follower before removing the punch to prevent launching it into orbit.
Caution: under tension!
9. Knock out the hammer pivot pin and remove the hammer. This will allow the sear to swing around and de-tension, which is fine. The hammer pivot, hammer spring retainer and the third pin in the next step all retain and stabilize the two sub-frame plates.
The sear’s resting position without the hammer blocking it.
10. Knock out the protruding pin that retains the sub-assembly plates. Until you know all the parts, try to keep the plates together initially. The lever that trips the firing pin block plunger and its spacer will come out, having been retained by that pin.
11. Lift off either plate. I chose the left side to work from, which has the ejector. If you’re a knife guy you may recognize the use of spacers and a sandwiched plate setup. The spacer pin in the middle is what one leg of the sear spring tensions off of. The sear, sear spring and pin can stay together.
Just about done, lift off a plate and you’re there!
All done! Reversing the order of operations should get it back together with minimal fuss. No slave pins, no craziness or special tools. Just be mindful of the trigger spring direction and which of the many holes in the plates belong to which pins and spacers!
Regarding the magazine catch, here are David’s comments via email. It seems I was correct in thinking the mag catch uses a slave pin for reassembly:
David: “Also, on the Mk7 the mag catch is part of the trigger guard. The proper way to repair or replace it is to drift out the mag catch tube as well as the mag catch pin and its reinstalled with an assembly pin into the trigger guard, then chased out with the regular pin once the tube is reinstalled.
Frankly unless it’s to replace a broken trigger guard or a genuine need to replace the catch, it’s best left alone.”
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